Trusting the airline gods

The race over, it is time for some relaxation. Brian and I were walking down main street in Siem Reap and saw a sign advertising fares to Malaysia for $35. I said, "Damn, I got 35 bucks." Brian said, "Me too." So off we went. We arrived yesterday in Kuala Lumpur and wondered where to go next. So we went to the ticketing counter and decided to head to Jakarta, abandoning our fleeting dream to explore Malaysia. We arrived last night and it is instantly clear that we were wise in choosing Indonesia.

Within a block of exiting our grimy, endearing guesthouse in search of nourishment, a schelppy-lookin' dude and his slick friend come up to chat with us. We instantly saw him to be a kindred spirit and stood on the curb talking for an hour or two. Their names are Tony and Tommy, two guys our age. Tony was rocking a huge dollar sign, jewel encrusted belt buckle and a giant rock of bling in his ear. Tommy stood next to him in sweatpants, rubbing his belly. Basically, they schooled us.

Tony and Tommy must be two of the wisest souls I have yet encountered. They told us about Indonesian culture, history and religion, shared their view of world politics, love, God, spirituality, ecological destruction and the impending doom, music, sin and mystery. This was all the more fascinating given that Indonesia is a Muslim country and Tommy was rather traditional in his reverence for Islamic teachings. I had mentioned to Brian that this trip could open my eyes to new global understanding, since it is our first time in a Muslim country. Tommy and Tony were set directly in the front of our path, to expose us to the gentle and wise Islam cosmology, not too different from Christianity, I thought. There were differences of opinion, of course, but overall I found them to feel like I do that God resides inside, in our hearts, in the connections between us and all other beings.

This is not the Islam on the news. This is the Islam of the peaceful, devout, joyous and quiet. Brian and I were jolted awake at 5 am by the incredibly loud broadcast of two holy men, chanting passionately to the divine. The first prayer of the day, their voices traveled through the neighborhood to awaken the residents, ensuring that their first conscious thoughts of the day are holy and beautiful. The chant went on and on. We lay awake, taken aback and wondering about the meaning of the mysterious Arabic melody.